For the first time since having kids, my husband and I went on a vacation, alone. (This isn’t so much a hardship as it is a fascinating bit of trivia. We just aren’t the vacationing sort.)
So where’d we go? Puerto Rico, of course!
It’s been nearly eight years since we spent four months volunteering in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria, so we were long overdue a trip back to visit friends and do all the touristy stuff we didn’t do when we were there working. So when the stars aligned (ie, the cows were simultaneously dry, it was “wintertime” on the island, and we were still, but just barely, pre-grandbaby), we sprung for it.
Now before you go any further, heads-up: this post is packed. My memory is crap, so I’m noting details (and attaching links) for next time — and for those of you who might be making a similar trek and want all the deets. Buckle up!
Here’s how we divided our eight nights on the island:
- 2 nights at an Airbnb in Ponce (Chiro and Lery’s house!)
- 2 nights at an Airbnb in Combate (an apartment)
- 2 nights at an Airbnb in Isabela (a tiny room)
- 2 nights at an Airbnb in Manatí (an enormous house)
PONCE
Days 1-3
At La Guancha, with a captured Russian ship on the horizon.
The whole time we were in Ponce, I was a bubbling mashup of exhilaration, melancholy, nostalgia, delight, and sadness. Our time there with all four kids was an intoxicating experience — challenging, intense, and profoundly rewarding — and it will never again to be replicated. That gap between What Was Then and What Is Now underscores the way time marches ever forward, and felt equal parts like a gut punch and forehead kiss.
The island was so different! When we’d been there after Maria, the island was still shattered, soggy in the summer heat and reeling from the destruction.
This time around, there were no blue FEMA tarps, flowers grew rampant, and we saw actual fields of banana plants. It was deliciously warm (sometimes almost cool!), and the roads were easy-breezy nice and lined with actual street signs and street lights (as opposed to being in crumbled piles in the median). There were still lots of empty houses, of course, but their abandonment felt worn over and not as cuttingly fresh.
Chiro and his son Demeric met us in San Juan, took us to lunch, and then handed us the keys to the jeep (which they let us use for the duration!!!).
The first 48 hours of island driving, I was edgy, clutching the door handle and yipping at the sharp turns and crazy steep inclines. But by the end of the trip, I didn’t even flinch when oncoming traffic swerved out of our lane last minute — and that, my friends, is proof of the powerful effects of a long vacation.
The two windows belong to the Airbnb and were the former entrance to the marquesina (garage).
In Ponce, we stayed in our friends’ new Airbnb, which was fabulous: washer and dryer, coffee maker, drinks in the fridge, comfy, HUGE bed, spacious, well-air conditioned, quiet, nice lamp lighting, easy access, and on and on. Highly recommend!
While in Ponce, we indulged in our favorites, like going out with friends for ice cream, stopping by the Dompline food truck for breakfast, popping by bakeries, swinging by La Guancha, and going for a run-slash-bike ride down to the water.
You would not believe the intense debate required to order a ham sandwich.
Catch of the day: pan de agua.
We had lunch with Nilda and Norleen, the owners of the house we built. The house is still standing strong, even with the earthquake they had soon after completion. Way to go, volunteers!
We also got to do the touristy things we never did when we were there, like touring the Castle (home of the owner of Don Q rum), riding to the top of La Cruceta (the lookout over Ponce), and meandering through the Japanese gardens.
The ride up in the glass elevator was a bit much for him.
COMBATE
For our first vacation spot, we’d wanted to stay in Parguera. However, we didn’t realize it was a long holiday weekend with both Valentine’s and President’s Day and by the time we tried to reserve places, everything was already booked. So we ended up in Combate, a vacationing hotspot for locals with ghost town vibes. Also, it’s the one place on the island I never really liked.
We survived it just fine, though.
***
For those who want to be like the cool kids…
How To Vacation Like a Puerto Rican
- Amass the required accoutrements: coolers, chairs, floaties, beer, music.
- The louder the music, the better, never mind if your neighbor is blasting something entirely different just five feet away. LET IT RIP.
- Stake out your spot, either in chairs on land or on floaties in the water, and then crack open a beer and kick back.
Combate
***
Day Four
We did a long beach hike in the morning.
exploring the trails in the marsh reserves
We drove up to the north of Mayagüez for a rum tour and tasting…
The coffee rum is amazing (and costs $19 in duty free).
And then jetted back to Combate where we watched people watch the sun go down over the water.
Day Five
Before heading to our next spot, we backtracked to Parguera where we’d reserved a boat.
We spent the five hours motoring to different little clumps of mangroves and walking around in the thigh-high warm waters.
the only beach (that I found) in the entire keys
Once we figured out how not to run aground, we became adept at finding nice sandy spots, and then I’d throw the anchor overboard and we’d sit there, bobbing on the water, quietly watching…
- hundreds of people on jetskis zipping back and forth
- boat police going after people (we never did figure out the rules)
- the huge variety of water crafts, including a gazebo boat serving drinks, double deckers, and boats made to look like cars.
- people walking about holding drinks aloft, and people using their jetskis as makeshift countertops on which to make mixed drinks.
zoom in to see the crowds
It was like being in an enormous water-filled playground. If you have kids, go.
ISABELA
Day Six
We headed into the Guajataca Forest. Getting there, the roads were so narrow and winding that we had to, per local instructions, roll down windows, drive 15 mph, and honk going around corners.
The trail was spectacular: well-maintained, lush, and a cacophony of birdsong, and we never passed another soul.
The 5+ mile loop included the Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind).
We’d brought headlamps for exploring, but when we reached the cave (after slowly descending the side of the mountain via a series of rotting and collapsing stairs), the opening looked like the entrance to an abandoned mineshaft. The “stairs” were sticks of wood going every whichaway, and they were in various stages of decomposition.
My husband took one look and said, “Hell, no.” I concurred. The end.
After the hike, we headed to the Gozalandia waterfalls. The upper falls was swarming with people and had a rope swing. I was terrified to jump, but my husband made me do it.
upper falls
The lower falls was also swarming with people. We sat in the shallows and watched crazy people jump from the falls and mountainside into the water.
lower falls
Day Seven
We tootled around the the western corner of the island, popping in to see Las Ruinas del Faro and the various beaches.
My favorite, by far, was Jobos because of its small-town, playful vibe.
Jobos
It boasted a perfect mix: calm water for small children on one side, and approachable waves for surfing on the other. If (when) we come back, Jobos is now at the top of my list.
Enroute to our next Airbnb, we’d planned to visit La Vaca Negra, a raw milk cheesemaking company, but on our way there we discovered they were closed that day. My husband insisted we swing by anyway, and wouldn’t you know, someone was out in the parking lot!
Turns out, she’s the project manager, and she cheerfully filled us in on the story behind the place, the products, and then she asked if we’d like samples. Duh, yes. We tried a bunch of yogurts (Oatmeal! Papaya! Coffee! Pina colada!) and then she pulled out boxes of cheeses.
We sampled them, all of them, and then bought one of each, plus yogurts, and Greek yogurt, and the most spectacular butter ever.
Mar Chiquita Beach
Days 7-9
Independent of us, my younger brother’s family planned a February vacation in Puerto Rico (and invited along with my parents and my two girls), so when we learned that our trips overlapped, we arranged to crash at their place for a couple nights.
Their Airbnb was incredible — I joked it was our vacation from our vacation — and it was super fun to kickback with the gang after being on the go all week.
Day Eight
My husband and I took everyone on a day trip to Ponce.
We caravaned through the center of the island, taking them up and over the mountains which was an adventure in its own right, thanks to the ridiculously curvy roads and steep drop-offs — a part of the island missed by most tourists.
Once in Ponce, we took them out for a second breakfast of domplines, and then to a waterfalls.
I can not believe we didn’t know about this falls when we lived here! Cool, deep, refreshing water in a vibrant green forest — it’s a little peace of heaven only a few minutes from Ponce. I bet we would’ve come every week.
Mid-afternoon, we went to Chiro and Lery’s for a Puerto Rican feast: mofongo, tostones, pork, chicken, arroz con habichuelas, Puerto Rican gazpacho, bakery pastries.
We ate up on the deck that Chiro built, visiting and laughing for three full hours.
It was wonderful, and I could’ve stayed even longer, but we wanted to head back through the mountains before dark.
I teared up, leaving. It’s so strange how bonds are forged. Eight years ago, we didn’t know this place, or these people, and now here we are, calling them family and feeling like we’re leaving a piece of ourselves behind.
Day Nine
We spent the morning lolling on the beach.
Grandfather in the background, granddaughter in the foreground.
Late morning, I found myself standing in the shallows, chatting with my brother and drinking a beer.
It took a whole week, but I finally learned to vacation like a Puerto Rican!
And then we packed our bags and headed to San Juan. I thought I’d be itching to get home, and while I was definitely excited (a new little human will be arriving any day!), I was surprised at how sad I was to leave Puerto Rico.
Combate sunset
And that, I think, means we had a good trip.
Notes:
- If heading to the beach, wear swimming suit with coverup, and take a cooler with drinks and snacks, floaties, lawnchairs, towels, book, cash. Be prepared to do nothing for 5-8 hours.
- In the wintertime, the water along the northern coastline gets pretty rough. Be on the alert for riptides and don’t be stupid.
- In Isabela, we got a single room. Next time, we’ll spend the extra $30-40 and get the apartment with kitchen. We learned that we enjoy ourselves much more if we have sufficient space in which to relax.
- TVs are fancy and complicated and often don’t work.
- Beach locations, because they’re tucked down in along the coast, are often out of cell service range.
- Average restaurants feel pricey ($20-30 for a single main entre).
- Hit bakeries for sandwiches to-go, drinks, coffee, and breakfast pastries (about $30 to feed two for a whole day).
- February is a fantastic time for visiting Puerto Rico!
- If I were to pack again, I’d bring: two pairs of flowy pants, two pairs of jean shorts, 1 pair of jeans, running shorts, assorted nice t-shirts, a tank top, swim gear. Flip flops, nice sandals, sneakers. (I took too many shorts and t-shirts, and most places have access to washing machines.)
- Take water shoes.
- A rental (or borrowed!) car is a must if you want to explore. We loved having the freedom to move about.
- Next time: more hikes. They’re so fun!
- I’m not a beer person, but I really liked Medalla. Also, parcha (passion fruit) frappes are wicked sour and soooo good.
- Pan de agua is good for making sandwiches. Pan sobao, which I prefer, is a little more sweet and dense.
- Airport security doesn’t check the ziplock bags of creams and liquids like they say they do. Carrying vacuum-packed cheese is allowed, but will get you searched.
- On your way out, get Pitorro rum (coffee and coconut are my favorite) in duty-free. $19/jar. You won’t regret it.
- Total cost of our trip: approx $2700. This includes 4 nights of housing, plane tickets, eating out, activity fees (boating, tours, etc), gas, and sundry purchases. For the most part, we behaved moderately, but we did not pinch pennies. Things we did not pay for included a car rental, 4 nights of housing, and a bunch of food (which probably equaled close to a savings of 2K, thank you, friends and family!).
If you’ve been to Puerto Rico, what are your favorite places, activities, tips, etc? I’m taking recs — you know, for next time…
This same time, years previous: fridge guts, 100% hydration bread, noticing, baked pasta with harissa bolognese, the quotidian (2.24.20), collard greens, homemade pasta, steer sitting, doppelganger, I guess this means we’re unschooling, the quotidian (2.24.14), birds and bugs, bandwagons, the rustic side.
