• Understanding the concepts

    I have written hardly anything about sourdough lately. I’m afraid you’ll take that to mean that I haven’t been doing any baking, which is not the case at all. Not only have I been baking, I have also been experimenting with my own recipes, reading up on the chemistry behind the sourdough, dreaming about having a masonry oven, and teaching others (albeit just one other, but that number should change to two after this coming week) how to make the bread.


    After three years of off-and-on baking, I’m starting to get into a more moderate baking rhythm. I get my starter out of the fridge, feed it for a couple days (if it’s been in the fridge for just a couple weeks, it only takes one day to wake up), increase the amount of starter, do a several days of big bakings, and then put the starter back in the fridge for another couple weeks.

    I’ve experimented with enough recipes that I know what my family likes best, so I’m more efficient, no longer spending large amounts of time trying out new recipes (though I think it’s because of the wide-range of recipes that I’ve made that I’m finally becoming more comfortable with sourdoughs).


    I have done away with the whole wheat starter, not because we don’t like it, but because I think there should be a way to make a nutty whole wheat bread using the white starter, a bread that rises better and tastes a little less sour. Which leads me to my first experiment. One morning, just a couple weeks back, I increased the amount of starter that I reserve each morning (I normally keep back a half-cup which provides enough, after a full day of feedings, to make a batch of Country White, with a little starter left over) to one full cup, putting it in a gallon jar to give it adequate room to grow.

    I gave the starter it’s accustomed third and final feeding right around suppertime, but then at bedtime I shook things up a bit. I poured out some of the starter into a quart jar and fed it again, a fourth time, but this time with whole grains and freshly ground flour. My hope was that the whole grains would absorb enough of the water that they would soften to provide a chewy, nutty texture to the final product. Likewise, I wanted the ground flour to have some time to ferment and sour, giving the bread a deeper, more complex flavor.

    The following morning I scraped the whole-grain starter into the mixing bowl, and proceeded with the recipe for Country White. I substitute some whole grain flours to the bread in place of the white flour, but because I didn’t want to make too many changes at one time, the modifications were minimal.

    The resulting bread is a whole wheat version of the Country White, just what I was hoping for, proving that I can indeed make a good whole wheat without a whole wheat starter and by following the standard recipe. Granted, the changes that I made were moderate ones, and I suspect that if I were to make substantial changes I would need to make other changes as well, such as upping the water or decreasing the salt, but for minor changes this method worked well, the key being to add some of the whole grains to the starter the night prior to mixing up the dough.


    I have written down my changes into a recipe format, just for the sake of clarity and good record-keeping. Bear in mind that there is nothing magical about the grains I used. It’s the method that is important (though flexible) as well as the proportions of flour-water-starter. Once you understand those concepts, the sky is the limit.

    Rye-Whole Wheat Sourdough

    Day One
    Several hours after the starter’s final daily feeding (in other words, right before you go to bed), measure out 6 ounces of white starter and put it in a quart jar. Add 2 ounces rye flour, 1 ounce rye flakes, and 3 ounces water. Stir well, cover lightly, and go to bed (both you and the baby).

    Day Two
    Mix up the dough as per the instructions for Country White. The proportions are as follows:

    the jar of rye starter (12 ounces)
    2 pounds and 2 ounces of flour: 1 ounce rye flour, 5 ounces whole wheat flour, and 1 pound 12 ounces white bread flour
    1/4 cup wheat bran
    1 pound 2 ounces water
    4 ½ teaspoon sea salt

    Day Three
    Bake the bread.

  • The whole lemon

    I gotta show you this lemon tart I made today.


    I totally bombed it, appearance-wise. The tart crust I used (not the recommended recipe because I was feeling ever so slightly petulant) slouched down to the bottom edges of the pan, like a cool-dude teenager’s baggy, low-riding, boxer-showing jeans. I decided to just dump the filling on top of the crust anyhow, and of course it boiled over and down just as I expected it would, and the edges burned some, but aside from that, it passed our taste-tests with flying colors. Yo-Yo Boy said that maybe he would ask for a bunch of lemon tarts for his birthday cake. And his pants are still firmly anchored above his hips.

    The recipe comes from Deb over at Smitten Kitchen. I’m in love with her blog! I can’t believe I’ve been web-literate (not to be confused with web-fluent) for this many months and just now found it. She’s in the same boat, or at least in the same cove, as Orangette, and that is some pretty high praise, coming from me, a smitten Orangette fan.

    Anyways, this is an amazing recipe, not just because of the flavor and the simplicity, but because the recipe calls for blending up an entire lemon, minus the seeds, in a food processor with some sugar. The resulting bits of chewy, candy-like lemon rind stud the creamy tart, and pack a punch flavor-wise. Is that not totally fantastic? Like, wassup, dude, this is some cool piece of sweet!


    Obviously, it doesn’t take much to make my day. Just give me a lemon and a food processor and all signs of pubescent petulance vaporize, poof.

    Now if I could just comfortably button my disconcertingly hip–huggin’ jeans…

    Lemon Tart
    From The Smitten Kitchen, and she, in turn, got it from Dorie Greenspan.

    For the crust:
    Use the recipe that Deb recommends (I’ll be trying it next time around), or your favorite tart crust, or even an everyday pie crust. Or, skip the crust all together and pour the lemon custard into little ramekins, set the ramekins in a pan of hot water, and bake them as you would a custard, till brown on top and the middle no longer jiggles (though keep in mind that after you eat the little non-middle-jiggling custard, your middle will be jigglin’).


    I just tasted the little ramekin of lemon filling (I had a some leftover after pouring the majority of the filling into my slouching-crust bottom) and it kind of divided as it baked, with the top and edges turning extra chewy with bits of crystallized sugar, and the bottom staying mostly creamy-smooth. So on second thought, though it would probably be quite tasty with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or some whipped cream, my preference is for a tart with a bottom crust, even a slovenly one.

    Partially pre-bake the tart crust. (I took that bit of instruction to mean that I was to bake the crust till it was set and turning brown on the bottom, and since that part turned out fine, I think I was correct in how I took that to mean. Are you still with me?)

    For the filling:
    Wash and dry a lemon, slice it thinly, and remove the seeds. Place the sliced lemon in your food processor along with 1 ½ cups sugar. Pulse until well blended, sandy in some places and creamy in others. (I licked some of the lemony sugar off my thumb, and it crossed my mind that this would be a fabulous mixture to have on hand come summer for stirring into sweaty, tall glasses of iced tea.)

    In a separate bowl, whisk together an egg, another egg yolk, 1 ½ tablespoons of cornstarch, the lemon-sugar, and a stick of butter that has been melted and then cooled.

    Pour the lemon filling into the tart crust and bake at 325 degrees for 20 minutes, and then increase the temperature to 350 degrees and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature and serve.

  • A bedroom birth

    The Baby Nickel turned three today.


    The festivities (and subsequent tears, as extreme happiness usually goes hand-in-hand with disappointment and frustration, at least in my little part of the world) are over and I have a few minutes to write before conking out myself.

    The Baby Nickel’s birth was a unique and extra-special experience—he was born at home, upstairs in my bedroom—and because of this, I was able to claim his birth and own it in ways that I hadn’t been able to with the previous three births. Excepts from his roughly-written birth story are as follows (it’s a long story, so I hope it doesn’t overwhelm you):

    ***

    For the first thirty-seven weeks of my pregnancy I planned to have a regular hospital birth with the midwives from a local practice that does hospital deliveries. I had met with Midwife A, the most open-minded of the midwives, for the majority of my appointments, and it was with her that I discussed some of my new ideas. We planned to waive rights to the eye ointment, the Hepatitis B vaccine, and the bilirubin, and to try to only get two (instead of five) heel pricks for the glucose test if the baby was over eight and a half pounds. Also, I told Midwife A that my ideal would be to just come into the hospital and listen to my body and not have internals and only minimal monitoring of the baby’s heartbeat. I just wanted to give birth at my own pace and without anyone telling me how to do it. She was affirming of my ideas.

    But I met with Midwife D for the 37-week appointment and after asking me if I had any special plans for the birth (I briefly told her), she launched into a speech about how I can’t have my fantasy birth, and how they are responsible for me and have to do regular checks. They needed to make sure labor progressed well, and my labors weren’t necessarily fast, she said. I was so upset that I couldn’t say a word. My labor with Sweetsie lasted all of three hours and five minutes—that wasn’t fast? I didn’t want a fantasy birth, just a birth that was treated as natural and not a crisis, unless it became one! Then Midwife D checked the positioning of the baby. I had been thinking that the baby was breech and D thought it was, too. I burst into tears. She said they would do an ultra-sound right away to find out. Turns out, the baby was in the head-down position, way low, his spine right along my belly—the ideal position for giving birth. I left the office not knowing whether or not I wanted to jump for joy or punch somebody.

    So I started scheming ways to not have to be in the hospital for very long. We thought that maybe I could go into town and labor in someone’s house up until the last minute and then rush to the hospital—that way we wouldn’t have to deal with all the interventions. Or could I lock myself in the hospital bathroom and not come out till I was ready? I was detailing all my plans to my girlfriend Kris one day, and she said, “If you’re waiting till the last minute, why not just have the baby at home?” Now there was a thought to chew on!

    I got a hold of Midwife T, and she said she would take me on. She lived over the mountains, an hour and a half away, but she didn’t seem too concerned about the distance, and besides, her helper for our area was Assistant M, and she lived in our town…

    Mr. Handsome and I got down to the business of reading up on home birth. The more I read, the more I became comfortable with it. Mr. Handsome was the same. And once we met Midwife T, we both felt comfortable. It was decided. The next day I called the midwives and told them I was transferring so I could have a home birth, and requested my medical records.

    We continued to read everything we could get our hands on. We hadn’t decided if the kids would be present or not, but Miss Becca Boo kept saying she wanted to be there (she wanted to see the little hands and feet and the placenta—she called it the “centa”) and Yo-Yo Boy mostly said he wanted to come in afterwards to hold the slippery baby. Either way, we knew they might hear and see things, so we prepared them the best we could. I found videos of natural birth that I watched with them, and we poured over the photographs in the birthing books. We talked about their births and looked at the photo albums. It would be my mother’s job to stay with them, so I knew they wouldn’t be stuck watching a scary situation.

    On the evening of the second, a Thursday, Mr. Handsome and I went on a cleaning rampage. It was typical nesting, though Mr. Handsome was the one with the sense of urgency. The only sign we had that I might go into labor was that a bunch of storms were coming up and the pressure was falling. I had been having too much fun over the past few days experimenting with my sourdough bread to really care when the baby came, and I was feeling really good, physically—none of the sciatic nerve or varicose pain I had with Sweetsie’s pregnancy. So, I filled the buckets and washed out the mop and Mr. Handsome mopped the whole house.

    When I laid down at ten o’clock I had a couple contractions, but that was normal. I soon fell asleep. I woke back up at midnight with mild contractions, but more problematic was my intense hunger. So we both went downstairs and had granola and juice. For some reason Mr. Handsome was wired, and he kept insisting that I was going to have the baby that night. So we made up both the guest beds. Then he started rounding up all the stuff that still needed to go up to our room. I looked up the emergency numbers that we hadn’t yet written down. We put candles in my room. I put the wine and champagne to chill and got out the lasagna from the freezer for whoever to bake the next day. Then I decided to soak in the tub, drink a glass of wine, and read for a bit. The contractions were getting harder, and after each one I wondered if we ought to call someone, but then there would be four to eight minutes till the next one, by the end of which I was wondering if I would have any more contractions and if it maybe was false labor. I just wished my water would break so I would know it was for real.

    Then I had a bad contraction and yelled for Mr. Handsome. He came bouncing in, all giddy, but he quickly sobered up when he saw I was crying. I demanded he go call Midwife T. I was terrified I was making her drive over the mountains for nothing, but I don’t cry with false labor. That was at two am. About fifteen minutes later we called Mom and Dad. And then my brother C and his wife M. And finally, at around three something, we called Assistant M. I sat on the living room floor and labored. I tried to read in between contractions, but soon I didn’t have enough concentration for anything besides just resting or talking.

    When people started arriving, my contractions started to fade. There was too much pressure. I felt like I had to have really good contractions to prove I was really in labor, but they weren’t always that hard. I couldn’t hear my body (and I was really wishing that my water would break to speed things up), so I went upstairs where I lit candles and started pacing. The contractions came every three to five minutes, but I was still worried that it wasn’t real labor. The midwife arrived, listened to the heartbeat, gave me some tips on breathing, and went downstairs to read.

    Miss Becca Boo soon woke up and Mr. Handsome went to tell her that I was having the baby today. She came in and sat on his lap, and while I had a contraction he whispered to her, explaining what was happening. She was all smiles, and then scampered off downstairs. When Yo-Yo Boy woke up, Mr. Handsome went to get him and told him he could come in to see me. I think Yo-Yo maybe came down the hall, but he paused outside the door and didn’t come in; he was either too shy or else scared. But I heard him yell down the stairs, “Becca, Mama’s going to have the baby today!”

    It was so special to be having a baby in my own room, listening to Mom bang around the kitchen, the kids chattering, the drone of my brother reading stories out loud. Life was going on all around me, and in the very place where we lived and slept and ate, I was giving birth. It was so natural and right. (They later told me that when I got loud, the adults would raise their voices to try to muffle the sounds. But once when my brother was reading, Yo-Yo shushed him and they all listened to me. Then Yo-Yo said, “Mama’s having a baby.” There was no fear or anxiousness about it—just a matter-of-factness. Exactly what I had hoped for.)

    The contractions were getting harder, but I felt in control and not at all fearful. I was surprised by how much I liked the quiet and dark. I had never experienced it in the other births, and it relaxed me.

    One time I reached for Mr. Handsome’s hand and he gave it to me from the wrong direction (Mom had sent up a plate of eggs and he was eating them on the sofa) and when I went to turn it around, I wacked him in the head instead. I could tell he was furious—I started to laugh but couldn’t because of the contraction. Pretty tricky to try to breath and laugh at the same time!

    By then I was laboring, my right hand holding on to Mr. Handsome’s hand and my left holding Sister-in-law M’s. Breathing in I would rise up, and breathing out I would sink my head to the ground. I felt like a good Muslim, except for the fact that I was facing South-West instead of East. Mr. Handsome kept telling me to slow my breathing but I was starting to have trouble staying on top of the contractions when they peaked. I started rocking back on my heels and bellowing during the peaks. I knew I couldn’t do it much longer, and I was mad that my water still hadn’t broken. The midwife suggested that I try to push a little with a contraction to see if it would break the water. She asked several times if she could check me and I finally said yes. She did a quick internal and reported that the head was right there. I rocked back on my heels, pushed, and my water broke.

    Then everything was chaos. Mr. Handsome was hauling me up on my feet and turning me around so I was in a standing squat. I didn’t know if I was supposed to push or what. The midwife was so quiet that I couldn’t hear any instructions and I yelled, “SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT TO DO!!!” (There may have also been a few profanities. Maybe.) The midwife mumbled something about me doing fine and then asked Mr. Handsome, “Are you hanging in there alright?” I felt like screaming at her, “DON’T ASK HIM HOW HE’S DOING. I’M THE ONE HAVING THE BABY!” But I just kept my mouth shut and exhaled through my nose, hard.

    My sister-in-law went to the door to call for Miss Becca Boo. The midwife told me to give another little push. I did, and the head was out; I looked down and saw it. I saw M’s face when she turned around, big-eyed surprise. I gave another small push and the baby slipped the rest of the way out, the midwife unlooping the cord around his body as he came. (She later told me that when his head came out he had his hand on his cheek, so she pinched his fingers, trying to make them go back in, but it didn’t work. So I tore.) He pooped a huge pile as he came out, and he got it all over the towels and my leg. He gave one cry, and she passed him to me and Mr. Handsome lowered me to the ground. We both saw the sex at the same time. “It’s a boy,” I exclaimed, but Mr. Handsome said it much more excitedly and loudly, “It’s a boy!” Then I realized how much he had wanted a second son. It was 8:25 am, three minutes after my water broke.


    Yo-Yo Boy came in then and climbed up on the bed next to Miss Becca Boo where they laid on their bellies to watch the goings-on. Mom brought Sweetsie in, but she started crying and asking to hold the baby, so Mom had to take her back out.


    The first thing I noticed was his swollen, huge face. And his enormous hands; Mom called them Gorilla Hands. I tried to nurse him, but he wouldn’t latch on at all. And he didn’t open his eyes—I didn’t see them for six hours. So much for not putting the eye ointment on and having a more alert baby! I sat on the floor for about ten minutes before they lifted me onto the bed. After about twenty minutes Miss Becca Boo cut the cord with Mr. Handsome’s help.

    ***

    The rest of the story didn’t go quite as planned, but I’ll not go into that here. Suffice it to say, The Baby Nickel was born at home, and for that special experience I am forever grateful.